We have officially been living on the Big Island for 5 months. Admittedly, I had given up on the chance of witnessing an active volcano when we arrived and discovered Kilauea was no longer spewing lava. But all that changed late Sunday night, December 20, 2020.

Kilauea is the most active shield volcano on the island of Hawaii, erupting continuously from 1983 until 2018. On May 7, 2018 the volcano explosively erupted at its crater known as Halema’uma’u. Numerous fissures opened up nearby spewing lava and sending cascades of glowing molten rivers through the valleys below, destroying homes and properties. Lava incessantly poured into the ocean at three different locations, growing the island an additional mile into the sea. On September 4, 2018, the last active lava flow was reported. For over 2 years the volcano quietly slumbered, but then on December 20, around 9 p.m., Halema’uma’u crater awoke with a jolt and added yet another surprise to 2020.

I felt like a kid on Christmas Eve as we quickly made the decision to book a stay for the next night at Kilauea Military Camp (2 miles from the eruption). The next morning we tossed a few hastily packed backpacks into the vehicle and were on our way. As we drove into Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, the billowing cloud arising from Kilauea came into view. A hint of sulfur filled the air, reminding me of last year’s family vacation to Yellowstone National Park. Luckily, because it was a Monday afternoon, the park was not overly crowded and we easily found a parking spot. The weather was gorgeous as the sun peeked in and out from behind the clouds, and a gentle breeze playfully tousled our hair. A brilliant rainbow arched across the sky with one end disappearing into the 279 feet deep caldera. What a sight to behold!

With plans of returning in the evening, we headed back towards our cabin. A long string of cars had since formed, all anxiously awaiting for the sun to sink behind the horizon and allow Halema’uma’u to display her glory. Back at the camp we were delighted to find each cabin had been individually decorated in holiday splendor. Christmas lights framed each roof and ornaments hung from the trees. Inflatable lawn decorations and plywood cutouts were staked at the edges of each lawn. Between the decorations and the cooler weather, Christmas finally felt like it had arrived in Hawaii!

As day faded into night, an eerie orange glow began to light up the sky in the distance. The cars, now at least 50 deep, dissuaded us from driving back to the crater, so instead, we opted for a night time nature walk along the rim of the caldera. Despite the decent size of the crowds, all that could be heard was hushed whispers as people quietly stood, mesmerized by inner earth’s sheer power and fury. The once white cloud of steam and gas now appeared as if on fire, hissing as it escaped the crater’s lair. The red glow of lava from down below lit up the moonless night. It felt like if I was only j..u..s..t a little taller, perhaps I could have seen deep into the crater and saw the fissures pouring lava into the newly created lava lake.

It is an unexplainable feeling to witness something so powerful, yet serene; so potentially terrifying, yet hypnotizing. No questions asked, this definitely made it onto “The-Cunningham-Must-Do” list!

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