As mentioned in my previous post, “Epic Anniversary”, 6 a.m. did indeed arrive as promptly as ever. Exhaustion fueled by jet-lag, mixed with a swirl of Alaskan morning pre-twilight, (in other words, darkness) topped with a dollop of frigid temperatures, made for a nice cup of, “I just want to stay under the warm covers.” However, adventure was calling and today was a perfect day to board Aurora Winter... I just had to drag myself out of bed….
After checking out of the hotel and a quick taxi ride through the empty downtown streets of Anchorage, we arrived at the historic Alaska Railroad Depot. Built in 1942, the outside modern-style concrete building was a stark contrast from the warm and inviting insides. Stating our names at the ticket window, we received our boarding passes, with the route “Anchorage-Fairbanks” printed across the front.
Scanning through the crowds of waiting passengers juggling suitcases and coats, I discovered, much to my delight, the depot had read my mind (and every other early morning traveler). Tucked in the corner of the station sat a splendid little cafe counter serving fresh coffee and hand-crafted steaming hot lattes! Perhaps it was just the fatigue, but I swear, that vanilla latte was the best thing I’ve ever tasted! Now adequately fueled on caffeine and sugar, I was relieved to know I wouldn’t sleep through our highly anticipated 12-hour scenic train ride through the snow-covered backcountry of Alaska.
Finally, we heard the commanding voice of the conductor announce boarding was to commence. Shuffling through the open doors towards the back of the depot, we quickly found our assigned car amongst the long line of blue and yellow shining steel stretching before us. Surveying the rows of beige-colored vinyl benches, we located the seats matching the numbers printed on our tickets and settled in. Once all the passengers were on board, the train whistle released a long bellowing farewell, “Whoooo,” as the clickety-clack of the wheels built up speed and carried us out of town.
From the moment we pulled away from Anchorage, the 360º views of white-capped mountains, snow-kissed evergreens, and icy blue rivers began. For 350 miles we reveled in the beauty of a frozen Alaskan winter, staring out into the cold while we were warm and snug, nibbling on reindeer sausage and sipping hot chocolate.
Through large picture windows, personally decorated by Jack Frost himself, we watched as moose stomped their way through belly-deep snow. We passed through the picturesque town of Talkeetna, resembling a life-size snow globe, taking up residence in the shadow of Denali. Slowly and steadily, as if not to disturb an angry troll from its slumber, the train crept across Hurricane Gulch Bridge. Located at milepost 284.2, the steel arch bridge, boasts being not only the longest, but also the tallest, along the Alaskan railway, crossing the gulch 296 feet above Hurricane Creek. In Denali National Park, the train paused long enough for passengers to stretch their legs and take in a few refreshing breaths of pristine mountain air. Shortly there after, darkness quickly surrounded us as the sun faded from view. The last leg of the trip was marked by the slow, rhythmic sound of the wheels scraping and screeching along the tracks, until we eventually came to a hissing stop at our final destination, Fairbanks.
What I found to be most intriguing about our experience aboard Aurora Winter was her flagstop service. During a 50-mile stretch of roadless backcountry, south of Hurricane Gulch, the train brings much needed supplies on her weekly trips. Seemingly in the middle of nowhere, the train would come to a halt, and there sitting on four-wheelers or standing by the side of the tracks, would be people bundled up, anxiously awaiting their necessities and goods to be delivered. Admittedly, I have a hard time imagining living so far away from the conveniences of town, but these wonderful Alaskans have found a way to enjoy the solitude of the wilderness, while still having access to much-needed essentials.
As Dave and I gathered our belongings and scurried into the depot, we reflected on the truly magnificent experience of Alaska. Perhaps God tucked it in the northern corner of the world, much like treasure that is hidden, and only unearthed by those who dare to seek adventure.
The Cunningham Crew 