February 23, 2022

During our Just-The-Two-Of-Us anniversary trip to Alaska, probably my most favorite adventure was hiking and exploring Castner Ice Cave, second only to experiencing the Northern Lights. Like discovering a frozen ocean wave hidden in the backcountry of Alaska, it was truly a memorable experience.

Before any vacation or cross-country trek, I always like to do my “homework.” I spend hours researching and sorting through tourist recommendations, hidden gems, historical landmarks, and exciting new attractions. I then narrow down all the wonderful suggestions to activities that we just can’t miss. This is how I came across Castner Cave; gotta love the internet!

As with every destination in Alaska, this escapade yet again required quite the drive, but I was hopeful it would be worth every gallon of gas spent! However, because we had been staying up late hunting Lady Aurora, we slept in, not getting on the road until after 1 p.m. Already slightly nervous about hiking into seemingly nowhere to some mythical cave, my concerns grew as the winds picked up, creating white-out conditions. As my imagination prevailed over my more sensible self, headlines began to scroll through my mind, “Missouri Hikers Freeze to Death While Searching for Rumored Ice Cave,” or “Bodies of Missouri Parents Found Dead In The Alaskan Wilderness.” Despite being dressed in thermal layers, outer gear, hand warmers, heated socks (my Christmas present from Sam), and ice cleats, I mentally decided it wasn’t worth the risk and we should turn back. Yet upon arriving at Richardson Highway’s milepost 217.3, the starting point for our hike, the wind had ceased and a crude parking lot was brimming with cars!

As we donned our gear, I inquired with a woman parked next to us concerning the hiking conditions. She reassuringly stated the 2.5 mile out and back trail was family friendly and truly a breathtaking sight to behold. Well that’s all I needed, the trustworthy words of a total stranger, so off we went!

Not only was the trail easy to follow despite the deep snow, but per Alaska’s usual, it was surrounded by 360º of nature’s majesty. I was thankful for the scattered hikers coming to and fro creating a frame of reference for where the opening of the cave was located. Trying to savor every moment, we slow-go’d our walk, taking about 45 minutes before finally arriving at the entrance. Unassuming from the outside, the mouth was roughly 50 feet tall by 40 feet wide. But as we walked inside, the magic began.

Have you ever cracked open a geode? Years ago (and I mean Y…E…A…R…S ago) a friend of mine gifted me one for my 13th birthday. I remember opening the present, and with a puzzled expression thought, “Why did she get me a rock?” It was then she explained to me a geode was a hollow rock lined with crystals on the inside and they have to be cracked open to see their inner beauty. Ok, now that you’ve got that mental picture, imagine walking into the cavity of a gigantic sparkling aquamarine geode…

Upon entering the cave, glacier blue scalloped walls ribboned with golden specks towered around us. A steady flowing river which frolicked during the summer months now created the slick transparent floor on which we carefully stood. Ice crystals resembling downy feathers, geometric cubes, and shards of glass formed a kaleidoscope of frosty designs above as we continued towards the ever darkening throat of the cavern. The overhead clearance eventually dwindled to mere inches as we were forced to lay belly-down in order to squeeze between the ever encroaching ceiling. Emerging on the other side, a wide vestibule opened before us, where frosty icicle stalactites clung to the roof above like daggers posed to drop.

Not daring to venture any further, knowing the sun would soon drop below the horizon, we headed back through the deep snow towards our car. I was surprised to see other hikers heading towards the cave as darkness was encroaching. I for one, did not want to risk becoming dinner for a pack of wolves (not sure if that was my imagination taking over again or just smart hiking advice). Nonetheless, the trek back was just as beautiful as the sky filled with watercolor hues of pinks, blues, yellows, and orange. Once warm and snug back in the vehicle, we settled in for the long drive back realizing Castner Cave had definitely been worth our gallons in gas!

Packing List for Castner Ice Cave

• If going in the winter-wear your warm weather gear…all of it
• Liter of water per person
• Flashlight (I was amazed at how few people had a light while walking into a CAVE!)
• Ice Cleats
• Snacks…but who needs an excuse to bring snacks?
• Full tank of gas

Things to Know Before You Go

• There are NO bathrooms…keep that in mind
• Check the weather before you go. This is a notoriously windy area
• If going in the summer, beware the cave is unstable and should not be entered, also you will have to cross Castner River, so keep that in mind
• There is no cell phone reception so be smart